Showing posts with label part. Show all posts
Showing posts with label part. Show all posts

Tuesday, April 1, 2014

How To Build A Coat Rack Part 3

Put the jig on the drill press table, (I have extended my table top, this is not necessary, but helpful.) Measure the bottom of the peg, and use the right size drill to make the holes. Use a piece of scrap wood to make a test hole, this will prevent you from ruining your already carved coat rack.The peg should fit nice and snug. 

Roll the end of the peg in the glue.

Use a rubber mallet to tap the peg in firmly. Then wipe off any excess glue. If you dont wipe off the glue before it dries it will not stain neatly.

Read More..

Tuesday, February 11, 2014

take an object do something to it do something else to it part 1

in a recent post, i wrote about refinishing a table i built 21 years ago in a style i am still working in today, and in fact, started working on in 1986. ill give jasper johns some credit for that as i often use his quote in the title above when talking about a design language. my introduction to my style was by complete accident in 1986. a client/friend who had been living in germany for a few years described this desk she wanted me to build for her based on some furniture she had been living with during those years abroad. i kind got what she was describing and made her desk, as she described it to me. click the photos to enlarge them ...
there it is, in the upper right hand corner, mahogany and black paint with brass hardware. my wife and i both liked the style and since our house at the time was more or less devoid of nice furniture, i decided i would participate in a show at a local gallery and whatever didnt sell (hah !), we would bring home for the dining room. well, we know how that goes, and i have had this lovely furniture in my own home for 25 years now. this was before the internet and before my book collection had grown to include anything regarding the biedermeier style. the desk above we liked, but was too formal for us so we used native natural cherry with the black paint instead of the stained mahogany. presto ... studio style ....thats our table and chairs in the upper left corner above and our sideboard in the top left corner of the top photo. so, what am i trying to say here?. this is a post i have been trying to write for a while about, really, how did i get here? we actually did two custom studio style dining rooms last year, this one, and this one so on we go with it ...
so, here we are ... take an object, or a design, or a combination of woods or colors and try to imagine how they could be different, or similar but different; change a little here; change a little there; change a lot, but keep some stuff; keep at it; keep reading and looking; keep an open mind and keep changing ... when you look back 30 some years later youll indeed wonder how did i get here? , but youll be pleased that your designs hang together from the same thread or threads that run through all of it ...

you can add some inlays ... here we have a studio style half round with abalone inlays, which led to some bed headboards with abalone inlays, and we know where that went, which was on to one of our most involved and challenging pieces. more on the wood and metal style in a future post.
wood and steel tables ... the bethlehem steel series.
Read More..

Monday, February 10, 2014

Let There Be Light Part III


This is part III of a III part series read parts I & II here.

I began working on the light ring stand at about 8:30 pm. It had to be completed that night, for in the morning it was to leave on a cross country drive. If that deadline wasn’t enough, it was also the first night of the newly resurrected #woodchat. Besides making the stand, I was tweeting and Google+ Hangouting for much of the night.

To construct the base, I used a 1” thick, factory made sheet of finger jointed pine. I find that using sheets like this for non-decorative pieces is cost effective and the boards I rip from these sheets are much straighter than dimensional lumber would be.
The partially assembled light ring stand.
The entire stand is made from strips, about 2” thick, except for the upper half of each leg. As I ran out of the 1” think sheet and it was 10:30 at night by that point, I used the only dimensional lumber I had in the shop, pieces of 2”x4” Timberstrand to make the tops of the legs.

Almost all of the joinery is made using T-nuts, 5/16” threaded rod and plastic knobs for easy breakdown. I set the T-nuts and install short pieces of threaded rod in each, secured with LocTite Threadlocker. Luckily, I had Ari around to cut the threaded rod lenghs for me while I fabricated the stand. The only permanently attached pieces are the receivers for the legs, where are permanently screwed to the feet.
The completed light ring stand with the light ring in place.
The stand is assembled with clamps as the LocTite was not yet dry.
When assembled, the stand is about 7’ high and can hold the light ring, centered at any height from about 3’6” to 6’9”. The light ring is simply placed against the upper legs of the stand and ring’s handles are clamped to the stand using small quick clamps.

To use the light ring, simply stand behind it, and take your photo through the ring, so that your subject is evenly illuminated on every side of the photo.
The stand, broken down and ready for travel.
Broken down, the stand is made of up 9 pieces, none longer than 4’. Though I didn’t have time to do so before the light ring and stand left of the west coast, I told Ari that if I picked up some large Velcro straps, it would make the stand easier to transport.
The light ring is now at home in LA, and its cooking with gas.
The light ring is now in LA, and soon it’ll be illuminating the stars.

What odd projects have you made to meet your friend’s needs?

Let There Be Light: Part I
Let There Be Light: Part II
Read More..

New Deck Part 6

Well I was hoping that the sub-contractor for pouring the walks would have started last week, but I guess since it was Masters week here in the Augusta area, they didnt even call. Hopefully, the walks will be done this coming week.

We did spent the week running errands, and buying stuff for the deck and other projects around here.  Decided to at least post some pictures of the deck with the new furniture and a fairly full complement of plants (at least for now).

Approaching from the driveway.
Entering the deck.

Succulents  to the left of the steps.
For dining alfresco.
Headed toward the sun-room.  A railing post installed next to the gutter down spout holds water and power,
View toward the sun-room.

Looking out from sun-room door.
The pollen fronds have finally finished falling from the oaks.  Without any cracks between the planking, it is quick work to blow them off the deck.  Even the mud tracked on the deck during installing the water and power, came off with just a spray of cleanser, brushing with a long handled brush and rinsing with the hose.  A lot easier than wood or composites in my experience.

Well have less of a problem with tracking once the walks are installed.  Of course, once all this work is finished and vehicles wont be in the backyard, we can finally get something done with the  backyard so we wont have so much mud.

Part 7

Read More..

Shooting Board The Ramp Part 3



The third in this series is a focus on the Adjustable Ramp for this pie-in-the-sky Shooting Board I want to build.

To even out the dulling of the plane blade, I like the idea of a ramped runway. The bonus of this is a skewed blade. What I dont like is the idea of either having to live with the ramp in all applications or having to make two Shooting Boards. Hence the Adjustable Ramp.

Here is the results of my efforts to come up with something that is workable in all configurations...




My grade 5 math teacher taught me that any angle divided into two can be made into a right angle by flipping one section, so I applied that theory to this ramp. First I defined the heights to have the bottom of the plane blade strike the stock just above its lower edge at the start of the runway, and did the same for it at the Shooting Boards fence. This gave me the angle. I then completed the piece by giving it a flat bottom. I then divided it into two equal pieces.

As the plane is going to run in tracks, it means that the top piece requires two sets of them; one set for the plane to run at the angle, and another for it to run when this piece is flipped to produce a flat runway. This meant I had to find the sweet measurement that would allow enough stock to let the tracks into both top and bottom surfaces, yet keep the Shooting Boards height to an absolute minimum. The result is an overall height of 4 1/2".

Im still searching for some hardware that will allow quick, but solid assembly and disassembly. There must be something out there.

So this is the basis of the project, which still needs some fine-tuning before any wood is cut. If anyone has any comments, observations or advice, Id love to hear it.

Peace,

Mitchell

Read More..