Showing posts with label of. Show all posts
Showing posts with label of. Show all posts

Wednesday, March 5, 2014

Day of the Doctor Weekend with Wood Cyber Black Friday Sunday clothes Movember

Is there a theme here?

Mere Minutes

A few links to stuff I mention this week:


  • Meze Headphones 
  • Weekend with WOOD
  • Woodworkers fighting cancer




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Friday, February 21, 2014

Filling the Top of The Chest

After I finished filling the bottom of the tool chest I was really psyched to start filling in the top of the chest. It was getting cold and I could almost feel the snow coming and if you remember, the biggest goal for finishing the tool chest is it would allow me to bring enough tools home to our apartment so I could continue to work over the winter and remain frostbite free.

Ive already designed my version of a Joinery Bench to knock down for travel, I needed a way to pack up the goodies that make a bench worth having.

I like the simplicity of the Anarchist Tool Chest sliding tray design. The baseness of the concept is infinitely versatile and will let me grow into my own comfort level of where I want my tools stored. It took me a bit of thinking and studying the pictures in Chriss book to really get the concept of how to put together the rails. Ive rarely been accused of being a particularly quick study. It took some time for me to wrap my head around exactly how I should go about it.

I may have missed it but I think Chris understates the concept of supporting the rail system from the bottom of the chest. The trays will be holding a lot of weight in tools for a very long time and even though he shows this support in pictures, I dont recall reading a word about it. Maybe Im off base but the support seems kind of important to me.


Its entirely possible I missed its mention in the reading. Im fallible. But I did read the construction sections of the book over and over as I worked my way through the build.

The bottom rail is a 1 X 1 section of hickory. The supports are the same size. One support helps sandwich the divider for the saw till, the other just takes up a little footprint in the corner.


The rail itself, in my version, stretches from the back of the chest to the support rail I made for the front tool rack. Not pictured here is a little corner glue block I placed with a little rub joint so the rail gained some support against the front of the chest as well.


From the bottom 1" wide rail you then build up the next rails. The next one up is still hickory and a 1/2" thick. It measures 6" wide to accommodate the deepest of the trays. This one I had to notch around the front tool rack. Another thinner rail weighs in at 1/4"thick and 3" wide to support the upper tray.

Oh and you can see the small glue block I placed to support the front of the widest rail.


A little glue on the back of the rails and some counter sunk screws to hold them in place. The bottom wide rail is glued and nailed to the side and also nailed to the supports.


With the rails in place I started working on the trays themselves. I cleaned up a bunch of hickory and resawed it to thickness using my bandsaw, until I dulled my blades beyond recognition, then I finished the job using the tablesaw. I may be a hand tool geek but I am also fat and lazy and not terribly interested in resawing to thickness by hand. Sorry to disappoint.


The upside to this process is I was able to butterfly my drawer bottoms. I know the detail of this will be hidden by the tools in the trays, but I will know its there and when I do get to see it, it will make me smile. The thickness for the bottom, deep drawer is 3/8ths" and the top two shallower drawers are 1/4" thick.


I planed ship laps in the bottoms and moved on to constructing the sides of the trays.

One of the several mistakes Ill admit to in this project happened in my planing stage. I just didnt buy enough poplar. I should have ordered closer to 70 to 80 board feet instead of stopping in the neighborhood of 60. I had already planned to use hickory for the long wearing surfaces like the tray bottoms and the side runners, but I just wouldnt have enough poplar. So I made a stop at the local home store and picked up some pine.


In hindsight I am not sad about this development at all, I love the smell of pine and everytime I open the chest, I get a puff of that sweet resin smell that triggers some kind of primal endorphin response. It makes me happy.



After cleaning up the home store marks and planing the boards straight I sized the sides of the trays to specific length and width. The they were resawn down to 1/2" thickness.


More dovetail hijinks ensued.


And in the end, I had a glued up and finished tray. . .


. . . Or three.

The hickory bottoms were all attached with nails and a couple dollops of glue to try and allow for wood movement issues. All the burn marks from the power saw blades were buffed out with a sander. 


And now I had the top of the chest to fill. Each drawer slides back and forth on its own rail. I used a little wax to reduce the friction. The real trick to these is to get the fit of the trays piston tight to the sides of the chest. A tight fit makes the sliding work better because the tray cant kick off center and bind.

I got close, very close, but I do have some racking as I move the trays back and forth. Most of the time it is not an issue and I just have to move a tray with two hands instead of the nonchalant one handed sweep The Schwarz uses in his demonstration videos. Im not too bothered or worried, the occasional stick is a minor issue and well see how they work after theyve seasoned in for a few years.


Just like when I finished filling the bottom of the chest, I couldnt hardly wait to throw my tools into the top trays and see how they work. Heres where my work showed one more mistake. In my calculations for the width of the trays I must have somehow added an inch to each trays width. The result is more room for tools in the trays, I like that, but you do not get that nice stacked effect where you can look down and see every corner of all the trays at once. At times a little fiddling is needed to get a specific tool out.

In truth, I think I came out on the winning side of this mistake, I like having a little more room in the trays.


As I said before, I could feel the snow was nearly ready to fly and once we received a significant amount I wouldnt be able to get my van closer than a football field away from my shop. I needed to get the lid on and the chest to my apartment before it became snowed in.

But that is another story for next time.

Ratione et Passionis
Oldwolf
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Wednesday, February 19, 2014

A DIfferent Kind of Sandpaper Storage

It has been over a month since I have had the time, opportunity, or energy to step into the shop. Life gets in the way in funny ways sometimes, but today I made it back and I even had a plan for what I wanted to work on. I will continue on with the tall case clock soon, but for now I am just happy to be making sawdust again.

I have a storage problem in the shop that Ive been searching for a while to answer. You see my sandpaper storage looks like this:
For a couple of years now, whenever I think about it, I have looked for ideas for storage solutions, Ive seen a variety of shelves, individual boxes, ones that sit on shelves, ones that hang on walls, ones made completely from scratch, and ones using plastic boxes purchased from Wal Mart. They all seem to work fine for their owners, but none of them look like something I would be happy with. So I stay with my little, too small, blue bin, and swear and sigh on the occasions I need to go fishing for a piece.

Recently I had to buy a full 4x8 sheet of 1/2" plywood for only about 10" of its width. I dont use plywood often in projects so I dont have a good storage solution for that either. That means I have spent a good amount of time moving it back and forth from one side of the shop to the other, yet again sighing and swearing. Well the one thing I have had time for on my shop sabbatical is thinking. Thinking and sketching and planing. I decided I would kill 2 storage solutions with one fell swoop. I would use up the plywood making a sandpaper storage center.

So I searched again for new ideas, I asked those who follow my on Twitter for ideas and I found several that were OK, but none that seemed right for me and my shop. A while back my wife and I went to a flea market and I saw an old tool box that was labeled as a blacksmiths tool box. It was completely enclosed with a slanted door. Inside there were several different partitions and this intrigued me at the time but I just filed it away in my mind but now it came to my mind again and I decided to use that idea.

Here are the pieces for the main carcass, I cut everything down to size using my trusty table saw, there was no point in dulling the hell out of my handsaws on plywood.
No fancy joinery, similar to the utilitarian packing box built in "The Joiner and Cabinet Maker" just some glue, butt joints, and finishing nails.  I know what your thinking, that is so unlike me. The box itself measures 18" wide and 12" deep, it is 14" tall in the back and slopes down to 9" in the front.
 With the basic case assembled I took up a plane and went to planing an angle on the front board to match the slope of the sides in preparation for the lid.
 Now the consideration became, if I have to move this about at times, how can I make that easier. So I made to fashion a couple of simple handles for the sides. I started with a couple of 1 1/2 square sections of pine. and I marked out the areas to recess for a grip.
 Using a chisel, a gouge, some rasps and a small block plane. I shaped the handle. Once it was done I started on the other.
I measured and drilled some pilot holes in the box. add a little glue and a couple drywall screws and the handles seemed to fit very nice.
Now it was time to plan to fill the partitions inside the box. I cut some more plywood to begin to create those. I use 4 kinds of sandpaper typically, I keep belts for the belt sander and 5 inch disk for a random orbit sander. I keep triangle shaped sheets for a mouse / detail sander. but the thing I keep the most of is a variety of sheets of fine wet/dry paper for sharpening chisels and plane blades. I started with the sections to separate the full sheets.
I cut a shallow swoop into seven of the eight sections using my coping saw. I know I could have done it on the band saw or with a jig saw, but often I just find it easier to grab a hand saw and make the cut. It really takes less effort than most people think once you take the time to develop some technique.
I set each partition with a 1/2" space inbetween each. They got glued into place and nailed with a couple of finishing nails.
I got all the sheet partitions in and built the partitions for the sanding belts and decided to call it a night in the shop. I actually get some shop time tomorrow as well. Two days in a row after such a long drought, I could get used to this.
With any luck...more tomorrow!
Cheers

Oldwolf
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Monday, February 3, 2014

who had the idea of the wooden horse that brought

Get who had the idea of the wooden horse that brought Best choice

Who Had The Idea Of The Wooden Horse That Brought

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Monday, January 27, 2014

Tool of the Month 2 Top Gear Style



The "Teasers":














 



The "Full Bore":
















Now the only thing left is to see how fast it sands its way around our wood rack, and for that well hand it over to our tame racing sander.

Some say, he polishes his teeth with a Nagura stone; that he keeps his chisels sharp by storing them inside a crystal pyramid; and that he once claimed to have invented the "nib" on hand saws as a way to pick up girls. All we know, is hes called The Twig!

Umm....Sorry....got carried away there for a bit...






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Saturday, January 25, 2014

Beginning a Journey of Homeric Proportions 1 6

Perhaps my favorite woodworking blog is Chris Schwarzs over at Popular Woodworking. How he produces the discharge of substantive output is beyond me.  Then again, it is his job.

John Economaki recently pointed out that Chris has the exact voice of Tom Brokaw. Click the hyperlinks to see for yourself. Watching his videos are never the same anymore. I also see that Mr. Schwarz is coming to Alpharetta in March to teach some classes. That might be fun.

Anyhow, yesterdays blog entry was titled "A Dovetail a Day-Hurray." Not the cleverest title, I know. Apparently he had written a little article in Popular Woodworking a couple of months ago about getting really good at dovetailing by knocking out one every day for a month. His blog links to the article which I think raises a really good point. Ill quote:

"So many times we learn woodworking on the fly as we build something. We get our skills just good enough to accomplish that project and then we move on. Its rare to get out a board and just saw it. Or plane it. Or mortise it with our router."

True, true. A reader took him up on this and the results are pretty good. By limiting yourself to only one at a time you have time to scrutinize your previous mistakes and try to do better the next time.

So thats my plan: 30 joints. I have some poplar ("the other softwood") floating around that I think will be pretty good for it. Poplar is pretty soft and can be unforgiving to the heavy-handed. Im also going to add speed to the mix too. My goal--inspired by Konrad Sauer--is to be very efficient while increasing accuracy.

Here are the rules:
-the stock will be prepped and ready to go
-tools will be laid out and ready to go
-no pre-layout is allowed
-all marking and measuring gauges must be zeroed out...no presetting
-Start=touch tools
-Finish=plane the pieces flush and put down the plane

Cell phone kept time.

Every joint will have 3 tails, 2 pins and 2 half-pins. Here are the results of day one:


Some observations:

-I think I should throw away my dovetail angle guides. The slope of my tails here were defined by eye and cut freehand. I think that they are pretty darn consistent. 

-It would be worth the time to be a little more mindful of my depth of cut. Im shooting through my scribe line just about every time. Usually Im not too bad with this but I neglected it here because of the clock...not smart.

-The jointer plane was used to finish out the joint. There was no need for that big thing...next time Im using the smoother.

As the picture says, I finished this one in 12 minutes and 7 seconds. Thats not really too bad but the quality needs to come way up. Joinery maestro Rob Cosman (another Canadian, by the way) has it down to under 4 minutes and Frank Klausz has it closer to 3.
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